Thursday, March 19, 2009

The North Jersey Jew Goes To Iceland (Plus A Short History of Icelandic Jewry) & Pics

NOTE: All pictures in this post were taken by me except for this puffin.

When starting a blog, some might say it's not an opportune time to go on vacation (unless you're going to blog the whole time so people can follow your vacation). I disagree. Going on vacation gives one time to think things out, plot out some entries, collect ones thoughts, and come back refreshed, ready spill one's guts.

The most common question I got when deciding to go to Iceland was, "why would you go there?" My answer was usually, "why not?" But the question has justification. Why would a person who has gone through 3-4 months of weather that would kill a Californian on a daily basis choose to go to a place that doesn't have a warm climate? For one, I'm not the tropical vacation type and while I do love California, it isn't because of the warmth. It's because of the attitude and the way it is diametrically opposed to the NJ/NYC way of life. Everything is easy going in a way, each city in a different way. Not easy going like retired Jewish grandparents in Florida with their early bird dinners and the measured I'm-old-so-I-own-the-road-driving.

I'm not going to lie and say it was not influenced by Sigur Ros & Bjork either (and no I didn't see either walking around in the streets). The flight on Icelandair does showcase the amazingly beautiful Sigur Ros documentary of when they travelled around their home country performing impromptu free shows to the delight of their countrymen. The decision also has to do with the idea of going somewhere intriguing and being able to tell other people that. Basically, I wanted to show off at how cool I really am.

The most important factor in the decision is where the real Jew in me comes out, the price. The world is in an economic recession which means money is tight and when money is tight in the world, it's even tighter in a Jewish wallet. Yet this also led to the perfect storm for the trip. March is offseason for Icelandic tourism. It's right between the Northern Lights/ 20 hour days of darkness and the summer and its 20 hours of light per day.

It helps that Iceland is basically bankrupt & with bankruptcy comes deals. Their currency is worth half of it was worth at its highs as recently as last year. Jews love deals. On the specific dates I chose, a flight that generally costs at least $1200 only costs $800. It's also not some crazy 10 hour flight (like going to Israel) but more manageable 5 & ½ hours, a bout as long as a trip to California. The hotel in the center of the city, one that I still can't pronounce after staying there for a week that can cost $200+ was about $70 a night. Amazingly crafted day trips like snowmobiling on a glacier (which I actually did do) that would have cost $400 a person was less than $200. Basically, it was a real deal.

All I can say is that it was quite a trip. The city was lively but not crowded just how I like it. Everything that I wanted to do I was able to, no tours were booked up, no museums were packed. Here's a small list of my favorite things/activities in Iceland:

  1. Snowmobiling on a Glacier – For a person who gets the brunt of all four seasons in the US and that enjoys winter, I have never been one for winter sports, outside of football (if that even counts). I went to Vermont once but didn't ski. I don't snowmobile. My winter sporting activities have been limited to the pastime of school snow-day sledding, shoveling out the driveway, and peeing in the snow to see it turn yellow. But this was quite amazing. It wasn't some five minute trek where the guide holds your hand. You sign a "waiver", basically one paragraph on top of a sign in sheet. They drive you up near the top of the glacier in Snow Cat (basically a giant Hummer with huge snow tire) on a path that before they were driving on it was no road but just tight turns on an icy stretch that no person should actually be able to drive without dying more than once or twice in a lifetime. Then you get up there, they turn on the snowmobiles and say follow us at speeds of 40+ km per hour. You learn by doing. I flipped over the snowmobile which was highly dangerous but unbelievably invigorating.

  2. The Golden Circle Tour – Outside of Reykjavik, the entire country is populated with more scenic views and natural occurring wonders than actual people. There is one major road that basically circles a collection of mountains, unique looking farms with Icelandic horses running about, and central to the Golden Circle Tour – the Geysir and the Gulfoss. The Geysir that that take you is where the word Geysir comes from. The day we went it was unbelievably but still a very interesting site. Then they took us to the Gulfoss, (which translates as "Golden Falls"), a huge waterfall with beautiful views and none of the kitschy Niagara Falls type crap. It was one of at least five beautiful waterfalls that we saw in our trekking of primarily the South and East of Iceland.
  3. The Cafes – While I wasn't much for the food of the country being a vegetarian in a land of Fish lovers, I found their coffee to be excellent and affordable especially at Te & Kaffi which were sprinkled through Reykjavik. I also just love books in general and loved seeing alternate European versions and especially the Icelandic translations of American bestsellers like James Patterson and "He's Just Not that Into You."
  4. Funny Signs – Funny/unique signs are only funny to individuals, generally to those who share the same sense of humor; mine is on the darker side. Here are a few of my favorites.
  5. Reykjavík 871±2 – A small exhibition in a basement of a hotel based around the ruins of the oldest discovered ruins of Icelandic Viking Settlement. A very modern interactive exhibition where you can stand within inches of these preserved ruins while learning plenty of interesting information about the period as only the Icelandic can do it. Here's a picture of the ruins:

I didn't mention the bar scene previously but for those who are into that, it is very active, lively, and probably one of the main attractions for people in their 20s and 30s. Going to Iceland is the antithesis in temperature to the "Home Land" yet has its interesting ethnic roots. One interesting connection is the language. Many linguists believe that Icelandic is just a preserved version of the original Viking Dialects of when Iceland was settled in the 9th and 10th centuries. Hebrew is very old as well and Jews still speak it. All in all, I'd highly recommend anyone go to Iceland, Jewish or not unless you can't bare the sight of snow and make sure to pack some warm articles of clothing.

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For those of you who want to know what the Jewish community is like in Iceland, Wikipedia has an answer of course:

"The Jewish community in Iceland today is almost non-existent. Religious observance is very liberal and the community uses a printed Torah scroll. In recent years, there have been four bar- and bat mitzvahs in Reykjavík. The Jewish community has discussed applying for registration as a religious organization, but there has never been sufficient interest to do so.

There are Jewish singles tours to Iceland, with a Shabbat service in a geothermal lagoon. There are reports of Jews being buried in the old cemetery in Reykjavík and of headstones engraved with the Star of David. However, the Star of David was used by the Freemasons and does not prove any connection to Judaism.

Despite the tiny population of Jews in Iceland, the First Lady of Iceland is Dorrit Moussaieff. She is an Israeli Bukharian Jew. Moussaieff has also introduced the Jewish culture to Iceland in a very positive way."

I also found this building but I'm not sure what it is. If anyone knows, let me know. That is a Jewish star on top.

More Links to Jewish info on Iceland:

History of Jew in Iceland on Wikipedia

Essay: Iceland, the Jews, and Anti-Semitism, 1625-2004 by Vilhjálmur Örn Vilhjálmsson – This may be the only essay ever to open up with a description of the relationship between Jews & the Vikings.

Anti-Semitism rears head in Iceland (Jerusalem Post Feb. 1, 2009)